Bosley Sidwell is one of the most interesting of my climbing acquaintances. In case you have missed any of his contributions to Alpinist magazine:
Bosley on the Climber’s Positioning System, here .
on the Enclosure of the Gunks, here
In Alpinist 45, a California climber named Greg W. indicated that he and his brothers and buddies had stopped buying the magazine because of its immorality. He instanced the f-word printed in giant red letters and “‘the bird’ being shot on p. 79.”
Bosley hastened to support him.
Bosley’s letter to the Editor (Alpinist #47):
Like Clay G. (letter, Alpinist #45), I was shocked by the language in #43. In my experience, climbers are never so crude. Even in critical situations, they maintain decorum. For example, recently my friend Leonard Forthwith was leading me on Yosemite’s famous Nightmare Crack. Encountering unexpected difficulties, he exclaimed, “Bosley, I fear I am about to topple over. Kindly guard the rope for me.” I did so, although in fact Leonard regained his balance. Some guidelines for propriety:
Crevasse fall: “Dear me, it is chilly down here.”
Stove won’t start: “How unfortunate. But we can still suck icicles.”
Rappel rope doesn’t reach: “This is surely a dilemma. Have you some extra Jumars?”
Dropped gear rack: “No doubt this was meant to be.”
Forced into bivouac on icy ledge: “Dawn is a mere twelve hours away.”
I am certain that Voytek Kurtyka’s regrettable adjective on page 68 was a mistranslation of the original Polish.
Wasps: “All creatures great and small/the Lord God made them all. That includes wasps and rock climbers.”
Snakebite: “As long as it doesn’t swell up and turn purple, there’s really nothing to worry about.”
Praise for Bosley's letter:
Leonard Forthwith: “I am happy to have played a part, albeit a small one, in stimulating Bosley’s effort to improve discourse in the mountains.”
Moshe Steigberger: “I’ll be more careful from now on--at least when climbing with Bosley.”
Clay G.: “F***ing right I like Bosley’s support. I bet he doesn’t practice any Humanist religion!”
Voytek Kurtyka: “I very glad Bosley saw the misztranslation. Did not say ‘fuck up.’ Should be ‘elevate.’”
Steve Roper: “Thanks to Bosley I have cleaned up my act somewhat.”
Famous female climber: “Hilarious” (doubtless meant ironically).
Katie Ives: “That letter has boosted Alpinist circulation 20%.”
Steven Jervis: “I identify with Bosley completely.”
In March 2014 I climbed Poon Hill for spectacular views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurnas etc. Whom should I meet up there but Bosley Sidwell! He had a giant telescope & was scoping out lines on the South Face of Annapurna. He conceded that they all looked pretty difficult.
I engaged him in a conversation about bad behavior in the mountains. I pointed to last year's conflict on the Lhotse Face (Simone Moro & co. vs Sherpas). Bosley informed me that the incident had been grossly misreported by the press. The true exchange went like this:
Westerners: "Namaste, oh skillful Sherpas. May we climb past thee?"
Sherpas: "It would be an honor, oh Sahibs! Shantih."
Bosley acknowledged that there had later been an altercation at Camp 2, but this was an unrelated matter. It was a disagreement about the proper translation of the ancient Sanskrit mantra, "Lord, I wash thy feet in holy water. Pray grant me access to the summit of Everest. Or at least the South Col, okay?"
I hope this clears up the whole thing.
Bosley's view of Dhaulagiri from Poon Hill:
Readers of the History of Imaginary Mountains (Alpinist, #54) should take note of the following ANNOUNCEMENT:
A climbing camp in the Croker Mountains is being planned for summer 2019. It is being organized by Pedro Algorithm and Bosley Sidwell. Only fictional characters need apply. The venue will be the Croker Mountains in Canada, north of Baffin Island. This range was first sighted in 1818 by the British Arctic explorer John (later Sir John) Ross. It was soon revealed that the mountains did not exist. Their fictional character makes them an ideal venue for this camp.
Sample application form:
name: Leonard Skinner
address: 420 Mt. Airy Ave., A 320, Philadelphia, PA 19119
fictional provenance: “For the Record,” by Steven Jervis; Ascent, 1989.
non-verification: "I swear that the above statements are entirely fictional":
Fictional peaks climbed:
Rum Doodle (to 35,000 feet)
The White Tower
Black Fang West
Other qualifications: I have pretended to climb for many years, and non-lead to 5.9. I never read Alpinist. I was (somewhat rudely) rejected for membership in the American Alpine Club because of my unreal status.
NOTE: fictionalized versions of historical figures (e.g., George Mallory) may be considered on an individual basis, but will be given a low priority.
Acceptances have been received from: Nell Bray, An Easy Day for a Lady, by Gillian Linscott; Cathy Canning, One Green Bottle, by Elizabeth Coxhead; Sankey, Climbers, by M. John Harrison; Two Robot-Guides, “2084,” by Anne Sauvy; Martin Ordway, The White Tower, by James Ramsey Ullman.
Applications should be sent to: Not Katie Ives at Alpinist, Box 190, Atlantis, Gondwalaland, 00001.
A glimpse into the future:
Namche Bazaar, Nepal; May 25, 2021, by Pedro Algorithm, for the New York Times
On May 23, Delora Schnook and Harvey Flywheel celebrated their nuptials. The wedding had two unusual features: it was held on the summit of Mount Everest, and the couple wore no clothes, except for thermal shoes, harnesses and oxygen equipment. They removed their masks long enough to murmur a few breathless endearments, have a quick kiss and say “I do.” Then they exchanged rings, which had been taped to their harnesses, before hurriedly re-donning their climbing costumes for the descent to the South Col, where they were reportedly recovering from frostbite.
The ceremony was officiated by Bosley Sidwell, who had been ordained for the occasion as a minister of the Universal Life Church. Assisting were a rabbi, an Anglican minister and a Hindu priest. All these participants were clothed.
The couple met in 2017 at an orgy at a Kathmandu restaurant that was sponsored by Alpinist magazine. The bride is the daughter of Glorifilia Schnook, who lives in a cave near the Shawangunks where she sells climbing equipment, and the late F. Graham-Bruce Godwin-Austen Schnook, the famous British explorer. The bridegroom has no known parents.
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